Jun 05, 2014 Phottix Mitros+ Review – the Best Flash System You. This is by no means a scientific test but I set the flash in manual mode 1. I have a few Nissin.

By Mason Resnick There are two stories here, blended into one. The first is a technical tale of mixing and matching one brand of flash with another brand of digital camera. The other is the saga of a shooting technique that will have old-timers (anyone who used flash before the invention of TTL) waxing nostalgic and children of the digital age discovering a great flash feature that was always there. First, the challenge: I am training myself in the art of wedding photojournalism and with the permission of friends and the cooperation of the “official” photographers at several weddings this summer, I had several opportunities to practice, experiment with gear combinations and techniques.

I knew I wanted to resurrect a technique I’d started using in the 1980s when photographing friends’ weddings: Flash plus long exposure, AKA dragging the shutter. It’s a technique that Garry Winogrand used in the 70s and early 80s, mostly when photographing stock shows and indoor rodeos. In my adaptation, I used a Leica M3, 28mm lens, and a Vivitar 283, on camera.

Everything I did was manual, and most exposures were guestimates based on experience. Although it’s a fairly common technique used by wedding shooters these days, in 1980 I knew of no wedding shooters who were doing it. Wedding, circa 1985. Was anybody else photographing weddings using flash and long exposure back then? I chose this technique because most of the weddings I photographed at the time were Orthodox Jewish weddings, where the dancing can be quite energetic, and I wanted to capture that energy on film. Now, in 2015, my friends’ children are getting married, and I’m doing it again, with digital gear.

My camera of choice these days is the Fujifilm X-Pro 1 with the 18mm f/2 Fujinon lens. I’ve been doing street photography with the X-Pro 1, so I feel comfortable using it for weddings. But what about a flash?

Mashup: A Canon flash on a Fujifilm camera? It can be done! Mix and Match I determined, after some research and testing, that my Canon Speedlite 430 EX II, would work with my Fuji. In fact, it would also work great mounted on a Nikon or even an Olympus or Pentax camera (but not Sony; they have a proprietary shoe mount; if the shoe don’t fit, you must quit). No adapters required—just attach it via the camera’s hot shoe! How could this be? Almost any flash designed for use with a digital camera has a trigger voltage that’s under 5 volts.

Anything above that may (correct that: probably will) fry your camera’s sensitive electronics, and game over. Classic manual flash units such as the Vivitar 283 should NEVER be used directly on a digital camera hotshoe. The 283 has a shockingly high (see what I did there?) trigger voltage of over 260 volts. Download Buku Gitar Melodi Pdf Files.

Use it once and you might as well kiss your digital camera bye-bye. (The Wein Safe Sync reduces an older flash’s output to a digital camera-safe 6 watts, just in case you have a Vivitar 283 or something from that era.) And so, you can use almost any digital-era flash on almost any digital camera that has a hot shoe (a quick google search on “Flash model X trigger voltage” should get you the info you need). If you mix and match brands, TTL and any other automation that requires communication between camera and flash won’t work. Which leaves you with manual flash. Old times’s sake: My original shooting combination, a beat up but perfectly-functioning Leica M3, and my workhorse flash, the Vivitar 283.